Yesterday afternoon, Vincent Bourdon, a friend and professional photographer who also took some shots for Delicious Days, joined me at Le Pavillon de la Reine to create a blog post. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the hotel is hidden down a cobbled lane right on the breathtaking Place des Vosges: I shall bring you the full story at a later date.

Jane Paech, Hotel Pavillon de la Reine. Photo: Vincent Bourdon.

While Vincent photographed the bathroom of Suite de la Reine I was madly scribbling notes in the bedroom. There were also notes scribbled above the bed, from the 17th century. The originals are stored safe and sound in the Bibliotheque Nationale, the National Library of France.

While Vincent took shots of the bedroom, I waited out of sight in the deep, claw-footed bath.

Jane Paech, Hotel Pavillon de la Reine. Photo: Vincent Bourdon

We scouted the courtyard and gardens, the library and common rooms, even the corridors to get a feel for the place.

Jane Paech, Hotel Pavillon de la Reine. Photo: Vincent Bourdon

Notes and photos taken, we took a leisurely afternoon tea at Carette, a lovely tea salon just a few doors down under the cloisters of Place des Vosges.

Jane Paech, Afternoon tea at Carette. Photo: Vincent Bourdon

What better way to end an afternoon than to share a plate of confetti-coloured mini macarons in flavours of pistachio, rose, cassis, raspberry and orange flower.

A plate of mini macarons, Carette, Place des Vosges. Photo: Vincent Bourdon

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Antonio de Figueiredo, the charming owner of Marie Antoinette

The boutique carries the Claus Porto line of fragrances, scented soaps and candles, a company that started in Portugal in 1887. The all-natural soaps are hand-wrapped in beautiful paper and are perfect for slipping into your suitcase. I particularly like the Deco Collection, glam soaps developed by perfume makers with inspired Art Deco labels. What is so endearing is that many of the products have a connection in some way to Antonio’s own life, and it was when he bought a Claus Porto candle that he realised it was the same brand as the cologne his grandfather used to wear. ‘I lived with my grandparents from 4-7 years old and remember so well the smell of my grandfather’s Claus Porto Musgo Real.’  I think perhaps smell, of all our senses, has the most potent ability to transport us instantly back to a place, a person, or a moment in time. In honour of his grandfather and his Portuguese roots, Antonio stocks the whole range of Musgo Real men’s skincare: masculine, sophisticated and seductive colognes and aftershaves created in 1920. The store is named in homage to his grandmother, who also created fragrances.

Antonio tells me about the Frapin fragrances, a house primarily known for its fine Cognac. These scents are for both men and women and produced on a small scale. Frapin 1270 is a tribute to the origins of the Frapin family who settled in the Charente in 1270 and conjures the complex aroma of a very old Cognac. The beech wood cap is a reference to the wooden casks that impart a wonderful flavour to Cognac. ‘Cognac was my first drink when I was 17 years old so it was an obligation for me to have it in the shop, it reminds me of this time,’ says Antonio.

He pops the top off a Mona Di Orio fragrance for me to try. ‘This perfumer was a student of the famous Edmond Roudniska, creator of grand classics like Diorissimo 56 and Eau Sauvage 66. The bottle has a Champagne wire on top, and pops when you open it.’ If the French have two passions, surely they are Champagne and perfume!

Whether you are searching for an old fragrance with spirit or something more avant-garde, here in this belle parfumerie française you will find a beautiful and enduring souvenir of Paris.

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