I’m about to dash out the door for a tasting tour of the Left Bank with Paris by Mouth, but first I want to tell you about the dinner I had last night at a little resto near the Eiffel Tower on the recommendation of my friend Jocelyn, an American who has lived here for many years.

After a long, bracing walk in the cold, the charm and beauty of Paris an enchanting backdrop, Jocelyn and I are ravenous and enter the cosy little dining room at Phillipe Excoffier to a warm welcome. It’s elegant Parisian bistro chic without being stuffy, with a glam red velvet banquette running against the wall and a large glass porthole connecting diners with the bustle of the kitchen. Chef Philippe Excoffier has worked with a line-up of great chefs and ran the kitchens of the American Embassy in Paris for many years, serving three ambassadors.

We opt for the 38 € prix-fixe three course menu and I start with the entreé suggestion of new season white asparagus served with hollandaise sauce, which comes beautifully cooked and plated.

Jocelyn starts with a refreshing and flavoursome mille-feuille of crab with red pepper, served cold. It’s simple, seasonal, elegant cuisine.

We order some Lalande-de-Pomerol to go with our main course of duck. The generous servings of pink and moist filets de canette arrive in a jus court à l’orange with baby vegetables and pomme grenailles, tiny potatoes roasted in their skins.

At the beginning of the evening we are asked if we’d like to order the soufflé in advance for dessert, as it takes some time to prepare. Powerless to resist a soufflé au caramel with a salted-butter sauce, we decide to share.

The warm dessert perfumes the air as it’s placed on our table and Jocelyn plunges in her spoon to make a little hole. She pours in the smooth, silky sauce and we dig in. Under the crust it’s incredibly light and airy and the molten mousse melts in the mouth. We scoop up every last bit of sauce and order coffee. A perfect finish to a memorable meal with a dear friend.

Back out on the street, we rug up and cross the Pont de l’Alma. Light twinkle on the bridges and the Eiffel Tower glows brightly behind us.

The cold is invigorating and I feel so alive that I could stay up all night as we walk briskly on toward the Champs Elysées. But tomorrow is another busy day. Here, Jocelyn and I say our goodbyes and I descend the metro steps. Suddenly, I am swallowed underground and delivered back to le Marais.

N.B. As for most restaurants in Paris, book around 8.30 pm or you will be dining alone with no atmosphere.