paris

On Dreaming of a pied-à-terre in Paris

June is going to be a very busy month for me. The deadline for a major edit on my upcoming Paris book is just a couple of weeks away (no, I can’t tell you any more just yet), I have just started a new job and sold my rambling stone villa, and I really must get packing! Finding somewhere to live is also on the ‘to do’ list and I have recently spent hours scrolling through the real estate pages on the internet and going to open inspections in search of a smaller place. I have clicked on contemporary apartments by the beach, visited charming inner city cottages, and brick townhouses in the burbs but there has been no coup de foudre…no ‘love at first sight’ address. With settlement date looming, I have resigned myself to the fact that it’s best to rent for a while.

Picture 1003 I do confess, however, that part of the problem is that my mind keeps drifting from Adelaide to Paris. I often find myself delusively searching for an artist’s studio in Montmartre instead of a sensible townhouse in Marden; or a tiny 19th-century pied-à-terre with a wrought iron balcon and a view over the chimney pots of Paris. Before I know it, it’s the wee hours of the morning and I’m surrounded by scrawled notes and the glimpse of a dream.

It got me thinking that there are probably a lot of other Parisophiles out there fantasising about a little apartment in Paris (even if it’s just to rent), so I thought I’d share some tips on choosing one, gleaned from both living in Paris and recent research.

As everywhere in the world, location is all important. Go for sought after areas that will hold their value, quarters that will have resale and rental appeal for both Parisians and foreigners, and aim for very best that you can afford. Just as vital, in my opinion, is the proximity to an open-air street market. Paris is a walking city and being able to stop by le marché daily to buy fresh food and not have far to carry it home is a huge advantage. An excellent boulangerie within dashing distance is also a plus for that bag of warm morning croissants.

As important as location is light. Winters in Paris are long and dark and sunshine flooding through those French windows makes the world of difference to daily life. Aim to be on at least the third floor or above to capture the light and look for flats that are western or southern facing. Check out the apartment on a dreary day if you can, to see just how dark it really is. Peer into the apartments across the road/courtyard on the same level. Are the lamps on in the windows during the day? We lived on the first floor and the lamps across the way were never off.

Picture 083Our stairwell was also particularly dark on the lower levels. Once the timer-light switched off we were plunged into total blackness and had to creep up the stairs, even in the middle of the afternoon.

Not all Parisian apartments have lifts but if you opt for an apartment higher up then a lift is a good idea, especially if you have suitcases to manoeuvre. Our building in Paris had a tiny, ornate ascenseur that fitted three at a squeeze and we mostly used the stairs but it was still a godsend when I returned from a trip to the supermarket with the trolley.

Picture 127Another consideration is outlook. Our flat faced the inner courtyard and agents describe this aspect as calme and tranquil, but the reality is that it can be too quiet and you can feel disconnected from the city. It depends on what you want. Especially for a short term rental, there’s nothing like watching life on the street below to feel a part of Paris: the dogs being walked, the bikes whizzing past and the children running back from the boulangerie with a fresh baguette. Aim for a balcony or a little balconette with either a view of a Paris monument or landmark or a glimpse over the rooftops. Ideally, I’d look for a tree-lined street that’s lively with shops and cafés and a neighbourhood feel. Beware of an area with too many offices; it will be dull in the evening.

Then there is the era of the building to consider. Everyone has their own vision of a dream pied-à-terre and for many foreigners it is the ancien apartment dripping with charm and character features. Apartments in Paris that have the wow factor are often snapped up within hours of going on the market, and will always hold their value.

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Most importantly, be patient, take your time and wait for the wow factor. You have to feel it when you walk in. Just like a man, don’t settle for a ‘nice enough’ but not quite right apartment. There are plenty of those around. Buying in France is a complicated process so it has to be extra special. It has to knock you over like a lightening bolt…un coup de foudre. If it doesn’t stir the soul, if it’s not extraordinary, walk away.

Unfortunately, there is no multiple listing service in Paris, no equivalent of www.realestate.com.au, which makes the process even more challenging. Speaking of which I really should get back to looking for that sensible townhouse in Adelaide.

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