I'm about to dash out the door for a tasting tour of the Left Bank with Paris by Mouth, but first I want to tell you about the dinner I had last night at a little resto near the Eiffel Tower on the recommendation of my friend Jocelyn, an American who has lived here for many years.After a long, bracing walk in the cold, the charm and beauty of Paris an enchanting backdrop, Jocelyn and I are ravenous and enter the cosy little dining room at Phillipe Excoffier to a warm welcome. It's elegant Parisian bistro chic without being stuffy, with a glam red ...