Just an hour’s drive from Adelaide and a short pedal from the cellar doors of the McLaren Vale wine growing region, Willunga is one of those country towns that inspires a ‘tree change’. Steep green hillsides frame the town, with views through to the sea past orchards and olive groves. Corduroy-ribbed vineyards snake up hills and wood-smoke curls in the air. The vibrant centre itself has a thriving arts community and a jumble of historic stone buildings that house quirky galleries and an array of good eateries.What I find most intriguing is a European provincial feel about the town and surrounds ...