It's just after eleven on a Sunday morning and a long line of clued-up locals curls from the door of la boulangerie. The smell of fresh bread teases on the footpath. Our tour guide Phyllis joins the queue and soon emerges with a traditional baguette, known as une tradi. She explains that there has been a renaissance in authentic, hand-shaped baguettes in France over the past few years and that une tradi can only be made from four ingredients: flour, salt, yeast and water. It takes longer to make a traditional baguette so it will cost you slightly more, but you are guaranteed the real thing. Phyllis cuts the ...